Fontana Dam to Davenport Gap
Before I get into my hike, I would like to take this time to tell you that the Great Smoky Mountain National Park is very different from the AT so far. First, the GSMNP is massive; it has over 800 miles of trails. Many of which intersect with the AT and other trails to form a complicated web. However, for AT hikers, the AT through the Smokies is exceedingly well blazed and easy to follow. However, if you do make a wrong turn and take one of the intersecting trails by mistake and you do not have a map, good luck. Second, you have to make advanced reservation for shelters and campsites. This requires more planning in doing the Smokies as a section hiker. You can make your reservations at the GSMNP website 30 days in advance of your first day of hiking. It will also cost you $4.00 per night, but no more than $20. This means you really have to plan out your hike before hand. Third, there are only three possible parking spots on the AT portion of the GSMNP: Fontana Dam, New Found Gap, and Davenport Gap/Big Creek Ranger Station. Fourth, thru hikers need a permit to hike the Smokies, but do not have to make advanced reservations. Fifth, if you are a section hiker, you MUST spend the night in the shelter. No tenting. No tree hanging. There are additional rules that I may be missing. Please call the GSMNP Rangers for additional details. They were very helpful in explaining at the rules and regulations with the park and helping plan the trip.
I had been looking forward to this hike since I first learned about the Smoky Mountains. I had been waiting for this hike basically since I start backpacking in July of 2014. It was a long wait, but it was worth it. This was going to be my longest trip. We planned it so it would take 5 days to do the 72.3 miles. This was the most food I had ever carried. Not only because it was 5 days of food, but because I had brought an extra 1/2 a pound of food per day. I usually bring 1 lb a food per day. I usually don't eat much, but for this hike I was thankful for the extra food. I actually wished I brought more food for the first time ever. This was also going to be my heaviest pack ever. I think I checked in at about 36 lbs with 5 days of food and 3 liters of water.
All that being said and despite all the rules and regulations, the Smokies has been my favorite section. It is absolutely stunning.
I had been looking forward to this hike since I first learned about the Smoky Mountains. I had been waiting for this hike basically since I start backpacking in July of 2014. It was a long wait, but it was worth it. This was going to be my longest trip. We planned it so it would take 5 days to do the 72.3 miles. This was the most food I had ever carried. Not only because it was 5 days of food, but because I had brought an extra 1/2 a pound of food per day. I usually bring 1 lb a food per day. I usually don't eat much, but for this hike I was thankful for the extra food. I actually wished I brought more food for the first time ever. This was also going to be my heaviest pack ever. I think I checked in at about 36 lbs with 5 days of food and 3 liters of water.
All that being said and despite all the rules and regulations, the Smokies has been my favorite section. It is absolutely stunning.
Day 1 | Friday May 22, 2015
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Start Location: Fontana Hilton (165.8 miles)
End Location: Russell Field Shelter (179.6 miles). Parking Location: Fontana Dam Visitor Center (166.1 miles). Views:Fontana Dam (166.1 miles); Boulder View (169.5 miles); Shuckstack Fire Tower Side Trail 0.1 miles (170.5 miles). Water Sources: Fontana Hilton (165.8 miles); Spring (169.4 miles); Ekaneetlee Gap (175.4 miles); Mollies Ridge Shelter (176.8 miles); and Russell Field Shelter (179.6 miles). Campsites: Fontana Hilton (165.8 miles); Spring (169.4 miles); Mollies Ridge Shelter (176.8 miles); and Russell Field Shelter (179.6 miles). AT Distance: 13.8 miles Hiking Distance: 14.0 miles. |
Usually, I write these shortly after a hike so my memory is fresh. However, this year I have been slacking. I have some major catching up to do. Unfortunately, this means I have forgotten some of the details of the hike. I do think that the pictures, however, have helped me remember a great deal.
I left work at 1:30 PM on Thursday, the day before our hike. The plan was to meet Super Sonic at Standing Bear Hostel Thursday evening and spend the night there. I recommend Standing Bear Hostel. It had a very relaxed atmosphere. It also had an amazing resupply spot for thru hikers. Although it isn't exactly the most luxurious, I would still recommend it. The bunk was $20.00 for the night. In the morning, Super Sonic and I drove to Big Creek Ranger Station where we left his car there, and I drove both of us back to Fontana Dam.
On my NOC to Fontana Dam hike, I finished at the Fontana Hilton so I had a 0.3 mile section to finish to get the visitor center where we would met RR. I went back down to the Fontana Hilton and took some pictures and started hiking. I also took the picture of the lake with the GSMNP in the background. As you join the road, there is a place for a stunning (albeit, stereotypical) picture of Fontana Lake with the GSM rising behind it. It truly is a stunning place.
A short walk, and I made it to the visitor center in no time where RR and Super Sonic where already waiting for me. I put my pack on, locked the car, and off we went. We took some pictures of the dam and continued to short road walk to the entrance of the GSMNP. Finally, the time was here. I will be hiking the GSMNP!!! Right at the end of the road walk there is an entrance sign to the GSMNP.
Out of Fontana Dam all I remember is climbing. And climbing. And more climbing. Short descent. More climbing. Another short descent. More climbing. Leaving the GSMNP entrance sign there is a virtually relentless 3,000+ foot, 7-mile climb to Doe Knob. There is a Spring at mile 169.4 where we resupplied on some water. The water was moving enough to fill a platypus. I was carrying 4 liters of water. This was my first real multiple day hike so I wanted to make my pack a little heavier for some "training." On my previous hikes, I realized I was out of shape. I was struggling with climbs that shouldn't have bothered me. So I wanted to test myself with this hike. Later that day, I regretted this decision.
Leaving the Spring there was a very short climb to a very kind and level maybe 0.5 mile section of the trail before you begin a short, but steep climb up to Shuckstack Fire Tower (170.5 miles), which is off a 0.1 mile side trail. Shuckstack is totally worth it. The views from the top are 360, panoramic views. You can see Fontana Lake from the tower. I loved it. I had heard so much about the Tower. How it was sketchy and dilapidated. I took my time on it don't get me wrong, but it wasn't as bad as I imagined when I heard people talk about it. The only really sketchy part was the top observation area. The floor is a mess, but still it held me and another person who is kicking anorexia's ass. I guess what I am trying to say is GO TO SHUCKSTACK FIRE TOWER. You won't regret it. After a short snack break talking to some other at the tower, we headed back down to the AT. By this time, Rusty and I realized Super Sonic was gone. Long gone.
There is a short descent after reaching Shuckstack Fire Tower down to Sassafras Gap (170.8 miles) where the BMT intersects the AT. Hopefully, later this year I will be back there again when I finish the BMT. From Sassafras Gap there is a virtual constant climb to the summit of Doe Knob at mile 174.0. During this climb, I started to cramp a lot. Earlier in the year, I had a wreck that messed up my back. It is more or less back to normal now. After my back, I hurt my knees really bad. I basically haven't done much backpacking (or any physical activity) since December 2014. My muscles were paying for it. Around this time it started getting really hot and my pack weight is starting to annoy me since I was cramping. At this point, I started to really suck down the water. I also started eating more snacks. I was just constantly tired and/or hungry. I ate more in this trip per day then I ever have before. Almost twice as much. RR and I took a break at the top of Doe Knob (174.0 miles). By this time it was pretty clear that I was holding him back, but he was kind enough to keep my pace. When I first met him, I told him I was this badass hiker. Lol, I can't imagine what he must think. I haven't had a respectable day yet, but hopefully it will get better.
After a short break, we started a fairly steep, 700+ foot descent down to Ekaneetlee Gap (175.4 miles). The trail guide shows water here, but I didn't go down the side trail too it. Another decision I would later regret. From Ekaneetlee Gap (175.4 miles), there is a steep 1.5 mile, 800+ foot climb to Mollies Ridge Shelter (176.8 miles). This climb took a lot out of me. I started to slow down quite a bit.
Finally, I got to Mollies Ridge Shelter (176.8 miles). I was out of water at this point, except for the 1 litter I was saving. From here the trail levels out briefly and then begins a nearly 700 foot descent to Big Abrams Gap (179.0 miles). I was 0.6 miles from the shelter, but it might as well been 3 miles. I was tired. More tired than I should have been. RR had gone up ahead. I crawl my way up the 0.6 miles 250 foot climb to Russell Field Shelter. This was our shelter for night 1. I made it to camp just after 5:30 PM.
We selected this shelter because the shelter immediately before and after this shelter allegedly had unreliable water sources,whereas this shelter allegedly had a reliable spring. Also, since we were going to get a late start, we wanted to have a shorter day 1. I put my pack down and say hey to everyone at the shelter. It was going to be a packed shelter. I look for water. I was very, very thirsty by this time. RR and I make our way down to the water source. The water source SUCKED! I was happy I didn't drink the 1 liter smart water bottle. I needed every bit of water I could get. After picking up a little water at time, I was able to get another 3/4 of a liter. I couldn't stand filling up a couple ounces at a time so I just gave up and made due with what I had. I drank the 3/4 liters I had and made my way back up to the shelter.
After cooking my meal, I decided to save 1/2 a liter for tomorrow because I had no desire to go back down to that awful spring. We cooked meals and traded stories with several hikers. There were some weekend hikers like us. Some long section hikers. It was a fun group of guys. I rarely complain about my company on the trail. They are some of the coolest people I know.
That being said, it always amazes me how early hikers go to sleep. The damn sun was still out and people were already asleep and snoring, especially three guys I didn't talk to much. God damn it, I hate shelters. I stayed up for much of the night with very little sleep. I stayed up part of the night reading the shelter log book. I read for about 2 months back in time. It is always fun to read about other hikers experience. Apparently, this shelter was visited a lot by bears. On this trip, however, I am happy to report there were no bears!
Gear note: I took my 2 lb 40 degree Ozark Trail Walmart sleeping bag on this trip. It is a crap bag, but I was looking for something lighter then my nearly 3 1/2 lb 3 season bag. This sleeping bag has 0.5 lbs of fill. That being said, I sleep soo warm that it actually did the job. I wasn't warm by any means, but I was comfortable and only rarely woke up with a few, mild shivers. I think it would be a great cheap summer bag. I could have save over 12 ounces and got a summer quilt, but that would have cost me at least $180. Instead, I bought a $40 2 lbs "sleeping bag." So far, I am happy with my decision.
I left work at 1:30 PM on Thursday, the day before our hike. The plan was to meet Super Sonic at Standing Bear Hostel Thursday evening and spend the night there. I recommend Standing Bear Hostel. It had a very relaxed atmosphere. It also had an amazing resupply spot for thru hikers. Although it isn't exactly the most luxurious, I would still recommend it. The bunk was $20.00 for the night. In the morning, Super Sonic and I drove to Big Creek Ranger Station where we left his car there, and I drove both of us back to Fontana Dam.
On my NOC to Fontana Dam hike, I finished at the Fontana Hilton so I had a 0.3 mile section to finish to get the visitor center where we would met RR. I went back down to the Fontana Hilton and took some pictures and started hiking. I also took the picture of the lake with the GSMNP in the background. As you join the road, there is a place for a stunning (albeit, stereotypical) picture of Fontana Lake with the GSM rising behind it. It truly is a stunning place.
A short walk, and I made it to the visitor center in no time where RR and Super Sonic where already waiting for me. I put my pack on, locked the car, and off we went. We took some pictures of the dam and continued to short road walk to the entrance of the GSMNP. Finally, the time was here. I will be hiking the GSMNP!!! Right at the end of the road walk there is an entrance sign to the GSMNP.
Out of Fontana Dam all I remember is climbing. And climbing. And more climbing. Short descent. More climbing. Another short descent. More climbing. Leaving the GSMNP entrance sign there is a virtually relentless 3,000+ foot, 7-mile climb to Doe Knob. There is a Spring at mile 169.4 where we resupplied on some water. The water was moving enough to fill a platypus. I was carrying 4 liters of water. This was my first real multiple day hike so I wanted to make my pack a little heavier for some "training." On my previous hikes, I realized I was out of shape. I was struggling with climbs that shouldn't have bothered me. So I wanted to test myself with this hike. Later that day, I regretted this decision.
Leaving the Spring there was a very short climb to a very kind and level maybe 0.5 mile section of the trail before you begin a short, but steep climb up to Shuckstack Fire Tower (170.5 miles), which is off a 0.1 mile side trail. Shuckstack is totally worth it. The views from the top are 360, panoramic views. You can see Fontana Lake from the tower. I loved it. I had heard so much about the Tower. How it was sketchy and dilapidated. I took my time on it don't get me wrong, but it wasn't as bad as I imagined when I heard people talk about it. The only really sketchy part was the top observation area. The floor is a mess, but still it held me and another person who is kicking anorexia's ass. I guess what I am trying to say is GO TO SHUCKSTACK FIRE TOWER. You won't regret it. After a short snack break talking to some other at the tower, we headed back down to the AT. By this time, Rusty and I realized Super Sonic was gone. Long gone.
There is a short descent after reaching Shuckstack Fire Tower down to Sassafras Gap (170.8 miles) where the BMT intersects the AT. Hopefully, later this year I will be back there again when I finish the BMT. From Sassafras Gap there is a virtual constant climb to the summit of Doe Knob at mile 174.0. During this climb, I started to cramp a lot. Earlier in the year, I had a wreck that messed up my back. It is more or less back to normal now. After my back, I hurt my knees really bad. I basically haven't done much backpacking (or any physical activity) since December 2014. My muscles were paying for it. Around this time it started getting really hot and my pack weight is starting to annoy me since I was cramping. At this point, I started to really suck down the water. I also started eating more snacks. I was just constantly tired and/or hungry. I ate more in this trip per day then I ever have before. Almost twice as much. RR and I took a break at the top of Doe Knob (174.0 miles). By this time it was pretty clear that I was holding him back, but he was kind enough to keep my pace. When I first met him, I told him I was this badass hiker. Lol, I can't imagine what he must think. I haven't had a respectable day yet, but hopefully it will get better.
After a short break, we started a fairly steep, 700+ foot descent down to Ekaneetlee Gap (175.4 miles). The trail guide shows water here, but I didn't go down the side trail too it. Another decision I would later regret. From Ekaneetlee Gap (175.4 miles), there is a steep 1.5 mile, 800+ foot climb to Mollies Ridge Shelter (176.8 miles). This climb took a lot out of me. I started to slow down quite a bit.
Finally, I got to Mollies Ridge Shelter (176.8 miles). I was out of water at this point, except for the 1 litter I was saving. From here the trail levels out briefly and then begins a nearly 700 foot descent to Big Abrams Gap (179.0 miles). I was 0.6 miles from the shelter, but it might as well been 3 miles. I was tired. More tired than I should have been. RR had gone up ahead. I crawl my way up the 0.6 miles 250 foot climb to Russell Field Shelter. This was our shelter for night 1. I made it to camp just after 5:30 PM.
We selected this shelter because the shelter immediately before and after this shelter allegedly had unreliable water sources,whereas this shelter allegedly had a reliable spring. Also, since we were going to get a late start, we wanted to have a shorter day 1. I put my pack down and say hey to everyone at the shelter. It was going to be a packed shelter. I look for water. I was very, very thirsty by this time. RR and I make our way down to the water source. The water source SUCKED! I was happy I didn't drink the 1 liter smart water bottle. I needed every bit of water I could get. After picking up a little water at time, I was able to get another 3/4 of a liter. I couldn't stand filling up a couple ounces at a time so I just gave up and made due with what I had. I drank the 3/4 liters I had and made my way back up to the shelter.
After cooking my meal, I decided to save 1/2 a liter for tomorrow because I had no desire to go back down to that awful spring. We cooked meals and traded stories with several hikers. There were some weekend hikers like us. Some long section hikers. It was a fun group of guys. I rarely complain about my company on the trail. They are some of the coolest people I know.
That being said, it always amazes me how early hikers go to sleep. The damn sun was still out and people were already asleep and snoring, especially three guys I didn't talk to much. God damn it, I hate shelters. I stayed up for much of the night with very little sleep. I stayed up part of the night reading the shelter log book. I read for about 2 months back in time. It is always fun to read about other hikers experience. Apparently, this shelter was visited a lot by bears. On this trip, however, I am happy to report there were no bears!
Gear note: I took my 2 lb 40 degree Ozark Trail Walmart sleeping bag on this trip. It is a crap bag, but I was looking for something lighter then my nearly 3 1/2 lb 3 season bag. This sleeping bag has 0.5 lbs of fill. That being said, I sleep soo warm that it actually did the job. I wasn't warm by any means, but I was comfortable and only rarely woke up with a few, mild shivers. I think it would be a great cheap summer bag. I could have save over 12 ounces and got a summer quilt, but that would have cost me at least $180. Instead, I bought a $40 2 lbs "sleeping bag." So far, I am happy with my decision.
Day 2 | Saturday May 23, 2015
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Start Location: Russell Field Shelter (179.6 miles).
End Location: Double Spring Gap Shelter (196.0 miles). Parking Location: N/A Views: Rocky Top Views, several (183.7 miles);Siler Bald (194/5 miles). Water Sources: Russell Field Shelter (179.6 miles); Stream (181.1 miles), Spence Field Shelter (182.5 miles), Derick Knob Shelter (188.8 miles), Siler Bald Shelter (194.3 miles), and Double Spring Gap Shelter (196.0 miles). Campsites: Russell Field Shelter (179.6 miles); Spence Field Shelter (182.5 miles), Derick Knob Shelter (188.8 miles), Siler Bald Shelter (194.3 miles), and Double Spring Gap Shelter (196.0 miles). AT Distance: 16.4 miles Hiking Distance: 16.4 miles. |
Another awful night of sleep on the trail. Flat out awful. There were three guys who snored so loud and so consistently that I could sleep. Just about everyone complained about those guys who remained asleep long after we left. We packed up. I decided to skip getting water from the crap spring. Super Sonic had a 1/2 liter of water left which he gave to me. So I had a liter of water. Little did I know that that liter was going to be virtually the only water I would have all day. I've always hated stopping for water, but this took it to a new level. I didn't have enough water the day before, but at least I had nearly 4 liters throughout the day. Now this was a second day with no water, and I paid for it. It left like a 20 mile day.
Leaving Russell Field Shelter, we hiked for Super Sonic for maybe the first 2 miles and then he took off again yet again earning his name. I wouldn't see him again until Derrick Knob Shelter 7 miles later. The trail leaving Russell Field Shelter is a constant but gradual climb for 2.9 miles where we reached the 0.2 mile side trail to Spence Field Shelter (182.5 miles). I had no desire to go 0.4 miles off the trail. At this point I still had 1 liter of water and was feeling good. From here, however, the trail becomes very steep up to the summit of Rocky Top (183.7 miles). It was slow going in sections; incredibly steep and very rocky, but we made it up. On the way up we met a ridge runner who asked us if we were thru hikers or section hikers. Nice guy.
Rocky Top (183.7 miles) has an elevation of 5,440, the highest I had ever been on the AT to this point. The views from Rocky Top are probably my favorite from this hike. I just loved being there. There were several views one after another. There is also this open field close to the summit. RR and I found No Poles sitting in the open grass field with an amazing view. How could we pass that up? We sat down and had some water and snacks and just enjoyed the view. I could have spent the entire day there. I have to go back there.
From Rocky Top there is a .6 mile section of rocky, but short climbs and descents to the top of Thunderhead Mountain (184.3 miles), which offered limited views. From Thunderhead Mountain, the trail steeply descends 600 feet in 0.7 miles. From here, the trail has a serious of short climbs and descents until you reach Starkey Gap (186.9 miles). By this time, I was completely out of water and had been for some time. I was less than 2 miles from Derrick Knob Shelter, where I could get more water. There is a short climb leaving Starkey Gap and the a short descent to Sugar Tree Gap. (187.7 miles). By this time, I was really feeling the lack of water. The lack of sleep didn't bother me. I never sleep well in my normal life, much less on the trail. I have learned to function without sleep, but I needed water. Luckily, I was 1.1 miles away from Derrick Knob Shelter; however, to get there I needed to climb 500+ feet. This climb was tougher then it should have been . During this climb, RR pulled away. Again, I was the last to reach the shelter. To my shame, this pattern occurred every damn time during this hike. I was by far the slow poke in this group.
To my surprise, Super Sonic was waiting for us when I arrived at Derrick Knob Shelter (188.8 miles). We had lunch here and I finally got some water. I put a liter immediately into my system, and I brought another liter of water with me for the final 7.2 miles to Double Spring Gap Shelter (196 miles).
From Derrick Knob Shelter, the trail has a serious of fairly short and easy ups and downs for the next 1.5 miles until you get to the base of Cold Spring Knob, where you begin a moderately steep, but less than a half a mile climb up to Cold Spring Knob (191.1 miles). From here, the trail descend just as steeply over the next half mile until you reach Buckeye Gap (191.6 miles). The trail then constantly climbs for the next 2.8 miles, but for a majority of this section the climb is very mild. That is until you get to the base of Siler's Bald, which turned out to be a constant and steep climb. Luckily, the climb was broken in two by Siler's Bald Shelter (194.3 miles). I again lost RR who pulled out ahead during this section, but I met back up with him at Siler's Bald Shelter. I was out of water again and had been for some time, but I heard the Spring was hard to get to here and it was unimpressive. With less than 1.7 miles to go to Double Spring Gap Shelter, I decided to push on.
Leaving the shelter, I continued to climb for another 0.2 miles miles until I reached the summit. From here, it was downhill for a little while then a brief climb up to Double Spring Gap Shelter (196.0 miles). Once I got to the shelter, I immediately found the water and put another liter in my system and picked up three more liters. There were more than 12 guys at this shelter, but this night we had a fire thanks to a group of young women from I forgot where who were nursing students. One of the young ladies had some blisters, which I informed her how to treat them given my extensive with the blisters.
It was another fun night with virtually the same guys from the night before minus the bastards who had a competition who could snore the loudest. Don't get me wrong in a shelter with 12 people, there are bound to be those who snore, but luckily, this time, the snores were reasonable.
Before it started getting dark, everyone yet again went to bed. I was left awake. I sat on the bench outside reading the shelter log book. I read 2 months back again. I read into the night, and I needed to get my headlamp out to continue reading. I stayed out as long as I could. I wanted to see the night sky while laying on this bench outside the shelter. However, it turned out to be a very windy night and the coldest night by far. I was in shorts and a T-shirt. I counted about 30 stars before I was forced to retreat into my sleeping bag due to the cold. The wind that night was pretty fierce. I got a little sleep, but then I needed to go to the bathroom around 1:00 AM. After that, sleep escaped me for the rest of the night except for maybe an hour right before dawn.
This night the shelter was packed again, but this time there were a few who were lucky enough to get to tent. Those individuals will remain nameless.
Leaving Russell Field Shelter, we hiked for Super Sonic for maybe the first 2 miles and then he took off again yet again earning his name. I wouldn't see him again until Derrick Knob Shelter 7 miles later. The trail leaving Russell Field Shelter is a constant but gradual climb for 2.9 miles where we reached the 0.2 mile side trail to Spence Field Shelter (182.5 miles). I had no desire to go 0.4 miles off the trail. At this point I still had 1 liter of water and was feeling good. From here, however, the trail becomes very steep up to the summit of Rocky Top (183.7 miles). It was slow going in sections; incredibly steep and very rocky, but we made it up. On the way up we met a ridge runner who asked us if we were thru hikers or section hikers. Nice guy.
Rocky Top (183.7 miles) has an elevation of 5,440, the highest I had ever been on the AT to this point. The views from Rocky Top are probably my favorite from this hike. I just loved being there. There were several views one after another. There is also this open field close to the summit. RR and I found No Poles sitting in the open grass field with an amazing view. How could we pass that up? We sat down and had some water and snacks and just enjoyed the view. I could have spent the entire day there. I have to go back there.
From Rocky Top there is a .6 mile section of rocky, but short climbs and descents to the top of Thunderhead Mountain (184.3 miles), which offered limited views. From Thunderhead Mountain, the trail steeply descends 600 feet in 0.7 miles. From here, the trail has a serious of short climbs and descents until you reach Starkey Gap (186.9 miles). By this time, I was completely out of water and had been for some time. I was less than 2 miles from Derrick Knob Shelter, where I could get more water. There is a short climb leaving Starkey Gap and the a short descent to Sugar Tree Gap. (187.7 miles). By this time, I was really feeling the lack of water. The lack of sleep didn't bother me. I never sleep well in my normal life, much less on the trail. I have learned to function without sleep, but I needed water. Luckily, I was 1.1 miles away from Derrick Knob Shelter; however, to get there I needed to climb 500+ feet. This climb was tougher then it should have been . During this climb, RR pulled away. Again, I was the last to reach the shelter. To my shame, this pattern occurred every damn time during this hike. I was by far the slow poke in this group.
To my surprise, Super Sonic was waiting for us when I arrived at Derrick Knob Shelter (188.8 miles). We had lunch here and I finally got some water. I put a liter immediately into my system, and I brought another liter of water with me for the final 7.2 miles to Double Spring Gap Shelter (196 miles).
From Derrick Knob Shelter, the trail has a serious of fairly short and easy ups and downs for the next 1.5 miles until you get to the base of Cold Spring Knob, where you begin a moderately steep, but less than a half a mile climb up to Cold Spring Knob (191.1 miles). From here, the trail descend just as steeply over the next half mile until you reach Buckeye Gap (191.6 miles). The trail then constantly climbs for the next 2.8 miles, but for a majority of this section the climb is very mild. That is until you get to the base of Siler's Bald, which turned out to be a constant and steep climb. Luckily, the climb was broken in two by Siler's Bald Shelter (194.3 miles). I again lost RR who pulled out ahead during this section, but I met back up with him at Siler's Bald Shelter. I was out of water again and had been for some time, but I heard the Spring was hard to get to here and it was unimpressive. With less than 1.7 miles to go to Double Spring Gap Shelter, I decided to push on.
Leaving the shelter, I continued to climb for another 0.2 miles miles until I reached the summit. From here, it was downhill for a little while then a brief climb up to Double Spring Gap Shelter (196.0 miles). Once I got to the shelter, I immediately found the water and put another liter in my system and picked up three more liters. There were more than 12 guys at this shelter, but this night we had a fire thanks to a group of young women from I forgot where who were nursing students. One of the young ladies had some blisters, which I informed her how to treat them given my extensive with the blisters.
It was another fun night with virtually the same guys from the night before minus the bastards who had a competition who could snore the loudest. Don't get me wrong in a shelter with 12 people, there are bound to be those who snore, but luckily, this time, the snores were reasonable.
Before it started getting dark, everyone yet again went to bed. I was left awake. I sat on the bench outside reading the shelter log book. I read 2 months back again. I read into the night, and I needed to get my headlamp out to continue reading. I stayed out as long as I could. I wanted to see the night sky while laying on this bench outside the shelter. However, it turned out to be a very windy night and the coldest night by far. I was in shorts and a T-shirt. I counted about 30 stars before I was forced to retreat into my sleeping bag due to the cold. The wind that night was pretty fierce. I got a little sleep, but then I needed to go to the bathroom around 1:00 AM. After that, sleep escaped me for the rest of the night except for maybe an hour right before dawn.
This night the shelter was packed again, but this time there were a few who were lucky enough to get to tent. Those individuals will remain nameless.
Day 3 | Sunday, May 24, 2015
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Start Location: Double Spring Gap Shelter (196.0 miles)
End Location: Pecks Corner Shelter (217.2 miles). Parking Location: Clingmans Dome (199.1 miles); Indian Gap Road Parking (205.1 miles); Newfound Gap (206.8 miles). Views: Clingmans Dome (199.1 miles); Newfound Gap Views (206.8 miles); Icewater Spring Shelter (209.8 miles) ;Charlies Bunion (210.7 miles); The Sawteeth (211. miles); The "View" (214.9 miles); and Bradleys View (215.9 miles). Water Sources: Double Spring Gap Shelter (196.0 miles) ; Spring (203.4 miles); Icewater Spring Shelter (209.8 miles); and Pecks Corner Shelter (217.2 miles). Campsites: Double Spring Gap Shelter (196.0 miles) ; Mt. Collins Shelter (0.5 miles off AT) (202.3 miles); Icewater Spring Shelter (209.8 miles); and Pecks Corner Shelter (217.2 miles). AT Distance: 21.2 miles Hiking Distance: 23.0 miles. |
After another crap night of sleep, I was eager to start hiking. Today was supposed to be a chill, short hike to Icewater Spring Shelter. About 14 miles. We had breakfast and were off around 7:15 AM. We wanted to get to Clingmans Dome as early as possible. From Double Spring Gap, we had a 3.1 mile, 1,100+ foot climb to Clingmans Dome (199.1 miles). RR and I started with Super Sonic again and kept up with him for about an hour. Then he started pulling away, and I couldn't keep up. We met up with him again on the Summit of Clingmans Dome (199.1 miles).
By the time we got the Clingmans Dome, there were a fair amount of tourists, but it wasn't bad. By the time we left, however, it started to look like a zoo. I've always disliked areas that are too easy to access. It just becomes a zoo. When we first got to the summit, the clouds were still pretty thick, but they started to dissipate quickly and we got a pretty good view for a little while before more clouds rolled in. Clingmans Dome, at 6,655 feet, is the highest mountain in Tennessee. It is also the highest mountain on the AT. So with this hike, I have conquered the highest peak in three States: (1) Georgia, (2) South Carolina, and (3) Tennessee.
Super Sonic, RR and I decided to go down 0.5 miles to the visitor center to drop off 2+ days worth of trash. I wasn't to keen on the idea, but I tagged along. The path to the visitor center is very steep downhill, which meant a very steep uphill on the return. After cleaning out some trash and getting a snack, we decided to make our way back up to Clingmans Dome.
NOTE: Visitor Center opens at 10:00 AM. Don't bother if you don't want to wait. Also there is a nice toilet at the bottom if you need a real toilet. Of course, the trade off is 1 additional mile.
RR and I made up back up to Clingmans Dome and started hiking back down. When you are at the highest point on the AT, the only place for you to go is down. Over the next 2.1 miles, the trail loses almost a 1,000 feet of elevation, some of which was very steep and rocky until you reach Collins Gap (201.2 miles). I slowed down significantly on this descent. It was too steep and too rocky for me to keep any kind of pace. RR, however, didn't have that problem and took off. Everyone always beats me downhill. I am just not comfortable with it. At this point, my foot started to hurt a little more. Not awful, but enough to slow me down on the more uneven part of the trial.
From Collins Gap (201.2), I begin a 0.7 mile, 400+ foot climb up Mount Collins (201.9 miles) and then the trail meanders until it reached Sugarland Mountain Trail, (202.3 miles) which takes you 0.5 miles to Mount Collins Shelter. I had no desire to go another mile out of my way to go to Mount Collins Shelter. I took a break at the gap and ate lunch. However, I was again out of water. I had maybe less then 200 mL with lunch. I was in no hurry after all. It was going to only be a 14 mile day, and I was almost half way done.
Leaving the gap, the trail very gradually descends. Although the trail was forgiving, it was starting to get very hot, and I was sweating a lot. Luckily, I found a small spring coming right off the mountain. It was little more than a trickle, but it would do. Although it took much longer than I would have liked, I put 1 liter in my system and brought another litter with me. I should have brought more because for the next 6+ miles, there is no water.
Leaving the Spring, the trail remains fairly level until you begin a moderate descent until you reach Indian Gap Road Parking (205.1 miles), which is a moderate sized parking lot. From here the trail is 1.7 miles from Newfound Gap (206.8 miles), but first you must do a small climb and a moderate descent down to the gap.
Newfound Gap, on memorial day, was a zoo. I have never seen more people in my life. I wanted to get the hell out of there. I took the mandatory pictures and ran away as fast as I could. Unfortunately, all the tourists would see my pack and ask all kinds of questions. Usually I don't mind, but this was too much. The trail might as well been the streets of down town Atlanta during rush hour. This was by far the second worst part of this trip.
In addition to all the people and all the damn questions, I was again out of water. I was also out of energy. This climb hurt. From Newfound Gap (206.8 miles) to Icewater Spring Shelter (209.8 miles), there was 3 miles of nearly constant climbing some of which was incredibly rocky and steep only made worst by the Atlanta traffic like atmosphere. At some point, I ran out of energy. I had to stop on a rock. I wanted to save my snacks for tomorrow because that was going to be the big day, but I thought I would never make it up in one piece if I didn't eat something at least. I had my last snickers bar and a cliff bar and off I went. After 5 minutes, I was flooded with energy and felt great again. I power my way up to the shelter where I find RR and Super Sonic. I have heard Icewater Spring Shelter is a really, really nice shelter with an amazing view. It is also increasingly close Charlies Bunion, which makes it all the more popular. The place was beyond full. They immediately said we are going to the next shelter, and I agreed immediately. It was 4:30 pm I believe and too early to call it a day. I asked RR and Super Sonic how long they had been waiting for me, and they said more than an hour. I was the slow poke in the group and, to be completely honest, I fucking hated it. With a little self-anger (read a lot) and still feeling good from the snack I just ate, I was ready to take off.
Of course, before I went, I needed water. Again I put about a liter in my system and carried another liter with me. While I was refilling water, RR and Super Sonic started hiking. As there was no water until the next shelter 7.9 miles away, I was banking on Pecks Corner Shelter having a good water source.
To get to Icewater Spring Shelter, we had hiked 14.8 miles already. Now we were looking at another 7.9 miles to get to Pecks Corner Shelter (217.2 miles), which is a half a mile off the AT on a side trail, Hughes Ridge Trail. It was probably around 4:45 pm when I started hiking again. Even at 2 miles per hour, I would be at the shelter before dark, but I was pretty sure I was going to get there sooner than that.
From Icewater Spring Shelter (209.8 miles), the trail descends for 0.9 miles until you get to the southern end of Charlies Bunion Loop Trail (210.7 miles). Even though I was pressed for time, there was zero chance I was going to pass this or any other view up. If I had to, I'd roll into camp after dark. I took the loop trail to Charlies Bunion. The place was likewise a zoo. It is too easy to get to unfortunately. There was a group on Charlies Bunion itself so I didn't even bother to get on it. I took pictures from the side trail and continued on the loop.
Unfortunately, I am a bit of a purist. I refused to leave that 0.1 mile section between the northern end of Charlies Bunion loop trail and the southern. So I turned right and hiked south for 0.1 miles and the turned around and hiked north. Shortly after leaving Charlies Bunion, there is allegedly an unmarked side trail to the original Charlies Bunion (211.0 miles), but to my great disappointment, I did not see it.
However, I did catch the view from "The Sawteeth" at 211.8 miles. Here I caught up and passed a father and son hiking the AT. They were going to try to make it to Tri Corner Knob, which was 11 miles away. They were going to have to do a lot of night hiking to do that. I was convinced I would see them at Pecks Corner Shelter because there was no way they would make it there anywhere close to sunset. For the next mile, the trail has short ups and downs. On the ups, I would pass the father-son combo. On the descents, the father-son combo would pass me up.
For the next three miles, the trail trail has a short climb followed by a long descent followed by a long, but moderate 600+ climb up to "The View" at 214.9 miles. During this climb to "The View," I passed the father-son combo for good. From here the trail descends approximately 400 feet. At 215.9 miles, I came to Bradleys View. I had just a little water left and one last snack I could eat. Bradley's View offered stunning views and just as importantly these awesome square rocks you could sit on close to the edge of the mountain where you could relax and virtually let your feet dangle off the mountain. That is precisely what I did. I spent close to 10 minutes there. It simply was too amazing to pass up. Plus I was making great time (at least I thought). I was less than 2 miles away from the shelter and I had probably been doing 3 miles per hour for the last 2 hours. At worse, I was an hour away from the Shelter. I had some time to kill. After about 10 minutes on Bradleys view, I reluctantly pulled myself away from the view and finished hiking 1.3 miles to the AT's intersection with Pecks Corner Shelter and then the fairly steep and rocky half a mile descent to Pecks Corner Shelter (217.2 miles).
I got to the shelter just before 7:30 pm. Again, RR and Super Sonic beat me to the shelter by a significant margin (30+ minutes), which again irked me because I felt like I was moving during this section. I had done the 8.4 miles in about 3 hours including a 10 minute long break for an amazing view.
I got to the shelter with enough time to eat, clean up, change, and socialize for a little bit. I spent this night in the shelter as well while RR and Super Sonic got a real night's sleep in their tent. Unfortunately, there was no room for my tent. Another night in the shelter it had to be.
By the time we got the Clingmans Dome, there were a fair amount of tourists, but it wasn't bad. By the time we left, however, it started to look like a zoo. I've always disliked areas that are too easy to access. It just becomes a zoo. When we first got to the summit, the clouds were still pretty thick, but they started to dissipate quickly and we got a pretty good view for a little while before more clouds rolled in. Clingmans Dome, at 6,655 feet, is the highest mountain in Tennessee. It is also the highest mountain on the AT. So with this hike, I have conquered the highest peak in three States: (1) Georgia, (2) South Carolina, and (3) Tennessee.
Super Sonic, RR and I decided to go down 0.5 miles to the visitor center to drop off 2+ days worth of trash. I wasn't to keen on the idea, but I tagged along. The path to the visitor center is very steep downhill, which meant a very steep uphill on the return. After cleaning out some trash and getting a snack, we decided to make our way back up to Clingmans Dome.
NOTE: Visitor Center opens at 10:00 AM. Don't bother if you don't want to wait. Also there is a nice toilet at the bottom if you need a real toilet. Of course, the trade off is 1 additional mile.
RR and I made up back up to Clingmans Dome and started hiking back down. When you are at the highest point on the AT, the only place for you to go is down. Over the next 2.1 miles, the trail loses almost a 1,000 feet of elevation, some of which was very steep and rocky until you reach Collins Gap (201.2 miles). I slowed down significantly on this descent. It was too steep and too rocky for me to keep any kind of pace. RR, however, didn't have that problem and took off. Everyone always beats me downhill. I am just not comfortable with it. At this point, my foot started to hurt a little more. Not awful, but enough to slow me down on the more uneven part of the trial.
From Collins Gap (201.2), I begin a 0.7 mile, 400+ foot climb up Mount Collins (201.9 miles) and then the trail meanders until it reached Sugarland Mountain Trail, (202.3 miles) which takes you 0.5 miles to Mount Collins Shelter. I had no desire to go another mile out of my way to go to Mount Collins Shelter. I took a break at the gap and ate lunch. However, I was again out of water. I had maybe less then 200 mL with lunch. I was in no hurry after all. It was going to only be a 14 mile day, and I was almost half way done.
Leaving the gap, the trail very gradually descends. Although the trail was forgiving, it was starting to get very hot, and I was sweating a lot. Luckily, I found a small spring coming right off the mountain. It was little more than a trickle, but it would do. Although it took much longer than I would have liked, I put 1 liter in my system and brought another litter with me. I should have brought more because for the next 6+ miles, there is no water.
Leaving the Spring, the trail remains fairly level until you begin a moderate descent until you reach Indian Gap Road Parking (205.1 miles), which is a moderate sized parking lot. From here the trail is 1.7 miles from Newfound Gap (206.8 miles), but first you must do a small climb and a moderate descent down to the gap.
Newfound Gap, on memorial day, was a zoo. I have never seen more people in my life. I wanted to get the hell out of there. I took the mandatory pictures and ran away as fast as I could. Unfortunately, all the tourists would see my pack and ask all kinds of questions. Usually I don't mind, but this was too much. The trail might as well been the streets of down town Atlanta during rush hour. This was by far the second worst part of this trip.
In addition to all the people and all the damn questions, I was again out of water. I was also out of energy. This climb hurt. From Newfound Gap (206.8 miles) to Icewater Spring Shelter (209.8 miles), there was 3 miles of nearly constant climbing some of which was incredibly rocky and steep only made worst by the Atlanta traffic like atmosphere. At some point, I ran out of energy. I had to stop on a rock. I wanted to save my snacks for tomorrow because that was going to be the big day, but I thought I would never make it up in one piece if I didn't eat something at least. I had my last snickers bar and a cliff bar and off I went. After 5 minutes, I was flooded with energy and felt great again. I power my way up to the shelter where I find RR and Super Sonic. I have heard Icewater Spring Shelter is a really, really nice shelter with an amazing view. It is also increasingly close Charlies Bunion, which makes it all the more popular. The place was beyond full. They immediately said we are going to the next shelter, and I agreed immediately. It was 4:30 pm I believe and too early to call it a day. I asked RR and Super Sonic how long they had been waiting for me, and they said more than an hour. I was the slow poke in the group and, to be completely honest, I fucking hated it. With a little self-anger (read a lot) and still feeling good from the snack I just ate, I was ready to take off.
Of course, before I went, I needed water. Again I put about a liter in my system and carried another liter with me. While I was refilling water, RR and Super Sonic started hiking. As there was no water until the next shelter 7.9 miles away, I was banking on Pecks Corner Shelter having a good water source.
To get to Icewater Spring Shelter, we had hiked 14.8 miles already. Now we were looking at another 7.9 miles to get to Pecks Corner Shelter (217.2 miles), which is a half a mile off the AT on a side trail, Hughes Ridge Trail. It was probably around 4:45 pm when I started hiking again. Even at 2 miles per hour, I would be at the shelter before dark, but I was pretty sure I was going to get there sooner than that.
From Icewater Spring Shelter (209.8 miles), the trail descends for 0.9 miles until you get to the southern end of Charlies Bunion Loop Trail (210.7 miles). Even though I was pressed for time, there was zero chance I was going to pass this or any other view up. If I had to, I'd roll into camp after dark. I took the loop trail to Charlies Bunion. The place was likewise a zoo. It is too easy to get to unfortunately. There was a group on Charlies Bunion itself so I didn't even bother to get on it. I took pictures from the side trail and continued on the loop.
Unfortunately, I am a bit of a purist. I refused to leave that 0.1 mile section between the northern end of Charlies Bunion loop trail and the southern. So I turned right and hiked south for 0.1 miles and the turned around and hiked north. Shortly after leaving Charlies Bunion, there is allegedly an unmarked side trail to the original Charlies Bunion (211.0 miles), but to my great disappointment, I did not see it.
However, I did catch the view from "The Sawteeth" at 211.8 miles. Here I caught up and passed a father and son hiking the AT. They were going to try to make it to Tri Corner Knob, which was 11 miles away. They were going to have to do a lot of night hiking to do that. I was convinced I would see them at Pecks Corner Shelter because there was no way they would make it there anywhere close to sunset. For the next mile, the trail has short ups and downs. On the ups, I would pass the father-son combo. On the descents, the father-son combo would pass me up.
For the next three miles, the trail trail has a short climb followed by a long descent followed by a long, but moderate 600+ climb up to "The View" at 214.9 miles. During this climb to "The View," I passed the father-son combo for good. From here the trail descends approximately 400 feet. At 215.9 miles, I came to Bradleys View. I had just a little water left and one last snack I could eat. Bradley's View offered stunning views and just as importantly these awesome square rocks you could sit on close to the edge of the mountain where you could relax and virtually let your feet dangle off the mountain. That is precisely what I did. I spent close to 10 minutes there. It simply was too amazing to pass up. Plus I was making great time (at least I thought). I was less than 2 miles away from the shelter and I had probably been doing 3 miles per hour for the last 2 hours. At worse, I was an hour away from the Shelter. I had some time to kill. After about 10 minutes on Bradleys view, I reluctantly pulled myself away from the view and finished hiking 1.3 miles to the AT's intersection with Pecks Corner Shelter and then the fairly steep and rocky half a mile descent to Pecks Corner Shelter (217.2 miles).
I got to the shelter just before 7:30 pm. Again, RR and Super Sonic beat me to the shelter by a significant margin (30+ minutes), which again irked me because I felt like I was moving during this section. I had done the 8.4 miles in about 3 hours including a 10 minute long break for an amazing view.
I got to the shelter with enough time to eat, clean up, change, and socialize for a little bit. I spent this night in the shelter as well while RR and Super Sonic got a real night's sleep in their tent. Unfortunately, there was no room for my tent. Another night in the shelter it had to be.
Day 4 | Monday, May 25, 2015
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Start Location: Pecks Corner Shelter (217.2 miles).
End Location: Cosby Knob Shelter (230.1 miles). Parking Location: N/A Views: Eagles Rock View (218.1 miles) and Deer Creek Gap (225.3 miles). Water Sources: Pecks Corner Shelter (217.2 miles); Tri-Corner Knob Shelter (222.4 miles); Spring (224.3 miles); and Cosby Knob Shelter. Campsites: Pecks Corner Shelter (217.2 miles); Tri-Corner Knob Shelter (222.4 miles); and Cosby Knob Shelter. AT Distance: 13.4 miles Hiking Distance: 14.1 miles. |
We woke up at sunrise again. Once the birds start chirping and hikers start moving around, it is hard to stay asleep no matter how tired you are. We had a very short day today. It was going to be around 13.4 miles. Last night we talked a little bit about finishing the trail today as it would be a 21ish mile day, but neither RR or I liked the idea of driving home 4 hours after a 21 mile day. Neither of us wanted to cut the experience short either.
After breakfast, RR, Super Sonic, and I leave Pecks Corner Shelter (217.2 miles). We climb the 0.5 mile climb back to the AT. We took a right back on the AT and continued to head north on the AT. I had decided that today was going to be a smell the roses kind of hike.
Leaving Pecks Corner Shelter sidetrail, the AT climbs 350+ feet for the next 0.9 miles to Eagle Rocks view (218.1 miles). This offers a really cool view from Eagle Rock right on the edge of a sheer drop off. We probably spent 10 minutes here taking pictures and goofing around. From here that trail descends 300+ feet to Cooper Gap (218.9 miles). Cooper Gap is significant because it means I have hiked almost exactly 10% of the AT. That is kind of crazy to think. I have walked from North GA to Tennessee over so many weekends, and I am only 10% done. The enormity of the trail did not hit me until this hike. Will I ever finish as a small weekend hiker? Certainly not any time soon, but maybe in this lifetime.
From Cooper Gap (218.9 miles) we begin a climb up Mount Sequoyah (219.6 miles) and then after a very brief downhill the climb up to Mountain Chapman (221.6 miles). From here, it is a short downhill to Tri-Corner Knob Shelter (222.4 miles) where I found RR and Super Sonic waiting for me to have lunch. We had a longer lunch then usual. We were in no rush to make it into camp too early. However, had we known the zoo atmosphere that would have occurred at Cosby Knob Shelter later that day, perhaps we would have. My campsite, at least, was awful. Absolutely awful.
But anyways, he had lunch at the Tri-Corner Knob Shelter and resupplied on water. RR and Super Sonic went on ahead as I wanted to go see a man about a dog for the first time on this trip. Finally. Success.
But writing this know reminds me of something I read in Pecks Corner Privy:
"Here I sit, broken hearted.
I tired to shit, but farted.
Then I stood up and took a chance.
I tried to fart, but shat my pants."
Luckily for me, that wasn't the case.
From Tri-Corner Knob Shelter, we finished a very short descent to an intersecting trail called Balsam Trail (222.5 miles) and then started a 400+ foot climb to Mount Guyot (223.9 miles). Here, the trail skirts to top of Mount Guyot, but never reaches the summit. After some short climbs and descents, I arrived at Deer Creek Gap (225.3 miles) for a very nice view. This was going to the the last of the day. From here, the trail stays level until it reaches Yellow Creek Gap (226 miles) and then starts a constant descent of over 1,400 feet over the next 2.5 miles.
Shortly after leaving Yellow Creek Gap, I came to a side trail to a plane wreckage (226.1 miles). Shortly after leaving the plane wreckage, I came to the intersection of Snake Den Ridge Trail. There was a nice little rock sitting area here, and I decided to take a break to dry out my socks a little bit and let my feet rest. After a nice 15 minute break, it was time to get moving. I was less than 4 miles to Cosby Knob Shelter.
I continued to descend until I finally reached Camel Gap (228.5 miles). Here the trail begins a 500+ foot ascent over the next mile until it starts to descend down to Cosby Knob Shelter (230.1 miles). I pull into camp and there are some many people and so many tents. The shelter is full. It doesn't look like there are any tent options left. I ask around for RR and Super Sonic. No one seems to have seen them. After briefly looking around for them, I guessed they decided to keep hiking given the zoo like atmosphere at this shelter. I agreed. I wanted out but, as I started to turn around, I heard RR call out to me.
We ended up spending the night here. It was an interesting night. Loud. Annoyingly so. A absolute shitty tent location on an annoying slope with rocks stabbing me from beneath. Weird chanting from someone. Luckily, once it starting getting dark, people started to quiet down. Given the crappy tent location, I had a very awful night of "sleep."
After breakfast, RR, Super Sonic, and I leave Pecks Corner Shelter (217.2 miles). We climb the 0.5 mile climb back to the AT. We took a right back on the AT and continued to head north on the AT. I had decided that today was going to be a smell the roses kind of hike.
Leaving Pecks Corner Shelter sidetrail, the AT climbs 350+ feet for the next 0.9 miles to Eagle Rocks view (218.1 miles). This offers a really cool view from Eagle Rock right on the edge of a sheer drop off. We probably spent 10 minutes here taking pictures and goofing around. From here that trail descends 300+ feet to Cooper Gap (218.9 miles). Cooper Gap is significant because it means I have hiked almost exactly 10% of the AT. That is kind of crazy to think. I have walked from North GA to Tennessee over so many weekends, and I am only 10% done. The enormity of the trail did not hit me until this hike. Will I ever finish as a small weekend hiker? Certainly not any time soon, but maybe in this lifetime.
From Cooper Gap (218.9 miles) we begin a climb up Mount Sequoyah (219.6 miles) and then after a very brief downhill the climb up to Mountain Chapman (221.6 miles). From here, it is a short downhill to Tri-Corner Knob Shelter (222.4 miles) where I found RR and Super Sonic waiting for me to have lunch. We had a longer lunch then usual. We were in no rush to make it into camp too early. However, had we known the zoo atmosphere that would have occurred at Cosby Knob Shelter later that day, perhaps we would have. My campsite, at least, was awful. Absolutely awful.
But anyways, he had lunch at the Tri-Corner Knob Shelter and resupplied on water. RR and Super Sonic went on ahead as I wanted to go see a man about a dog for the first time on this trip. Finally. Success.
But writing this know reminds me of something I read in Pecks Corner Privy:
"Here I sit, broken hearted.
I tired to shit, but farted.
Then I stood up and took a chance.
I tried to fart, but shat my pants."
Luckily for me, that wasn't the case.
From Tri-Corner Knob Shelter, we finished a very short descent to an intersecting trail called Balsam Trail (222.5 miles) and then started a 400+ foot climb to Mount Guyot (223.9 miles). Here, the trail skirts to top of Mount Guyot, but never reaches the summit. After some short climbs and descents, I arrived at Deer Creek Gap (225.3 miles) for a very nice view. This was going to the the last of the day. From here, the trail stays level until it reaches Yellow Creek Gap (226 miles) and then starts a constant descent of over 1,400 feet over the next 2.5 miles.
Shortly after leaving Yellow Creek Gap, I came to a side trail to a plane wreckage (226.1 miles). Shortly after leaving the plane wreckage, I came to the intersection of Snake Den Ridge Trail. There was a nice little rock sitting area here, and I decided to take a break to dry out my socks a little bit and let my feet rest. After a nice 15 minute break, it was time to get moving. I was less than 4 miles to Cosby Knob Shelter.
I continued to descend until I finally reached Camel Gap (228.5 miles). Here the trail begins a 500+ foot ascent over the next mile until it starts to descend down to Cosby Knob Shelter (230.1 miles). I pull into camp and there are some many people and so many tents. The shelter is full. It doesn't look like there are any tent options left. I ask around for RR and Super Sonic. No one seems to have seen them. After briefly looking around for them, I guessed they decided to keep hiking given the zoo like atmosphere at this shelter. I agreed. I wanted out but, as I started to turn around, I heard RR call out to me.
We ended up spending the night here. It was an interesting night. Loud. Annoyingly so. A absolute shitty tent location on an annoying slope with rocks stabbing me from beneath. Weird chanting from someone. Luckily, once it starting getting dark, people started to quiet down. Given the crappy tent location, I had a very awful night of "sleep."
Day 5 | Tuesday, May 26, 2015
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Start Location: Cosby Knob Shelter (230.1 miles).
End Location: Davenport Gap (238.1 miles). Parking Location: Davenport Gap (238.1 miles) and Big Creek Ranger Station (much safer). Views: Mount Cammerer (232.9 miles). Water Sources: Cosby Knob Shelter (230.1 miles); Spring (233.2 miles); and Davenport Gap Shelter (237.2 miles). Campsites: Cosby Knob Shelter (230.1 miles) and Davenport Gap Shelter (237.2 miles). AT Distance: 8 miles Hiking Distance: 8 miles. |
We got up a little later than usual on this day. It had rained for most of the night before, and it was still lightly raining when we to make breakfast. Luckily, we only had an 8ish mile hike to Davenport Gap. I ate breakfast and before I finished RR and Super Sonic were off. They were going to walk the 1.1 miles to Big Creek Ranger Station where Super Sonic had left his car and pick me up at Davenport Gap. I finished breakfast and packed up. I headed out about 10 minutes after RR and Super Sonic did. The trail was mostly down hill. We would certainly get there before noon with enough time to grab a bite to eat and drive back to Fontana where RR and I left our cars.
From Cosby Knob Shelter, the AT continues to descend 500+ feet over the next 0.7 miles to Low Gap (230.8 miles). From here, the AT begins 2.1 mile, 800 foot climb to a Mount Cammerer Trail (232.9 miles). I did not go up the Mt. Cammerer lookout tower as the weather wasn't cooperating. It stopped raining, but it was still cloudy. Plus, I didn't want to be any later to Davenport Gap than I already knew I was going to be as the slow poke of the group. It is one thing to pull in late to camp. It is another thing to make people wait for you at the end of a hike.
From here, the trail begins a virtually constant descent. I had heard from others that the descent was brutal, but I didn't find it so. Except for 1 maybe 2 small sections, the descent was very easy. I did have 1 fall on a wet log, but it was insignificant. Hurt pride more than anything else. The descent was over 3,000+ feet over the next 5.2 miles. I remember getting to Davenport Gap Shelter (237.2 miles) in no time.
From Davenport Gap, I was less than 1 mile away from finishing my smokies trip. Bitter sweat was the best way to explain it. I was happy to finally get the chance to hike the smokies. I was likewise happy to finally get to take a shower, but I was so sad that this trip had come to an end. I wanted to keep going north. I wanted to turn around and do the smokies again, but this time southbound. I simultaneously wanted and didn't want to get off the trail. With these thoughts in my head, I finish the final 0.9 miles to Davenport Gap (238.1 miles). I hike this last mile slowly not wanting it to end but realizing that this trip was over.
I get to the gap and see that RR and Super Sonic were not waiting for me. Thank God! After about 10 minutes, I see Super Sonic's car and off we went to get some real food. What an amazing trip in an an amazing place with amazing company.
From Cosby Knob Shelter, the AT continues to descend 500+ feet over the next 0.7 miles to Low Gap (230.8 miles). From here, the AT begins 2.1 mile, 800 foot climb to a Mount Cammerer Trail (232.9 miles). I did not go up the Mt. Cammerer lookout tower as the weather wasn't cooperating. It stopped raining, but it was still cloudy. Plus, I didn't want to be any later to Davenport Gap than I already knew I was going to be as the slow poke of the group. It is one thing to pull in late to camp. It is another thing to make people wait for you at the end of a hike.
From here, the trail begins a virtually constant descent. I had heard from others that the descent was brutal, but I didn't find it so. Except for 1 maybe 2 small sections, the descent was very easy. I did have 1 fall on a wet log, but it was insignificant. Hurt pride more than anything else. The descent was over 3,000+ feet over the next 5.2 miles. I remember getting to Davenport Gap Shelter (237.2 miles) in no time.
From Davenport Gap, I was less than 1 mile away from finishing my smokies trip. Bitter sweat was the best way to explain it. I was happy to finally get the chance to hike the smokies. I was likewise happy to finally get to take a shower, but I was so sad that this trip had come to an end. I wanted to keep going north. I wanted to turn around and do the smokies again, but this time southbound. I simultaneously wanted and didn't want to get off the trail. With these thoughts in my head, I finish the final 0.9 miles to Davenport Gap (238.1 miles). I hike this last mile slowly not wanting it to end but realizing that this trip was over.
I get to the gap and see that RR and Super Sonic were not waiting for me. Thank God! After about 10 minutes, I see Super Sonic's car and off we went to get some real food. What an amazing trip in an an amazing place with amazing company.