Nantahala Outdoor Center to Fontana Dam
Day 1 - Saturday, October 18, 2014
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Start Location: Nantahala Outdoor Center (137.4 miles) (137.3 miles) NOBO
End Location: Brown Fork Gap Shelter (153.1 miles). Parking Location: NOC (137.3 miles) and Stecoah Gap (NC143) (150.7 miles). Views: The Jump-up (141.9 miles) and Cheoah Bald (145.2 miles). Water Sources: Grassy Gap (139.7 miles); Sassafras Gap Shelter (144 miles); Cheoah Bald Summit Campsite (145.2 miles); Locust Cove Gap (147.6 miles); and Brown Fork Gap Shelter (153.7 miles). Campsites: Swim Bald (143.1 miles); Sassafras Gap Shelter (144 miles); Locust Cove Gap (147.6 miles); and Brown Fork Gap Shelter (153.7 miles).Sassafras Gap Shelter (144 miles); Locust Cove Gap (147.6 miles); and Brown Fork Gap Shelter (153.7 miles).Sassafras Gap Shelter (144 miles); Locust Cove Gap (147.6 miles); and Brown Fork Gap Shelter (153.7 miles).Siler Bald (114.4 miles) AT Distance: 15.8 miles Hiking Distance: 16.4 miles. |
This hike actually started Friday evening. It was 4:00 PM, and I was leaving work. EB, an old law school buddy, and I were going to do NOC to Fontana Dam. Since we had a 4-hour drive ahead of ourselves, we decided to meet at Fontana Dam and spend the night in the Fontana Hilton rather than driving 4 hours in the morning Saturday. That way would could leave a car there and drive early in the morning to NOC and start our hike. It was a damn good plan.
I left work very excited. I couldn't wait to get to Fontana. I was rocking out to music and in a really good mood. After three hours of driving, I was in a more foul mood. It was a long drive; it felt like I would never make it. However, when I finally pulled into the parking lot, my mood instantly got better. I took my sleeping bag and pad out of my trunk and made my way down to the Fontana Hilton. It was by far the best shelter I had spent the night in. Although my general rule is to avoid sleeping in a shelter, this was an intentional except. The Fontana Hilton is famous on the AT. With hot showers and running plumbing, I can see why it is so acclaimed.
I met EB there. I didn't get there until about 8 pm. We talked about hiking for a while, law school, work, and life for a while and then we decided to turn in so we could get an early start in the morning.
I woke up Saturday after a decent night of sleep. It wasn't great as it was still a little warm, but it had cooled significantly from my previous hikes. I was able to go to sleep before 1 am. In the morning, we were the first to break camp: an event that rarely happens with me. The sun was just starting to rise over the lake. I convinced EB to have breakfast before we went and watch the sun rise over Fontana Lake. After breakfast, he drove us down to NOC. We parked the car, and we were off.
Anyone who has hiked this section of the AT knows whether you are going NOBO or SOBO, the climb out of NOC can be difficult. I have been doing a lot of hiking so I got used to it. I also started to note that while the climbs in NC that I have done so far are larger, they tend to be over a greater distance as well so as to not be as steep as some of the hikes in GA.
This hike serves as an example. There is a 3,600 + foot climb from NOC to Cheoah Bald, with 90% of the trail constantly climbing, but the climb is over about 8 miles. I think these types of climbs are easier then the 1,000+ feet of elevation gain in a mile or so. Of course, that is just my personal opinion.
We left NOC around 8:30 am. We reached Wright Gap (138.9 miles) at 9:15 am. Here the AT crosses a dirt road. I found a beer can on the trail which I picked up and packed out. We continued to climb. Four miles later we come across our first view: the Jump-up (141.9 miles), which has great views of the Nantahala Gorge. Up to this point, we have done nothing but climb 2,100 + feet of elevation over 6 miles. We take a 2-3 minute break, and at 11:30 am we continue to climb.
Next we reach Swim Bald (143.1 miles), which offers little to no view; however, after Swim Bald, we finally have a 300 foot descent, our first of the day. It felt great to not be climbing anymore, and this less than a mile break down to Sassafras Gap Shelter (144 miles) really recharged my batteries.
Here we decided to have lunch around 1 pm. I had what is now my usual lunch: idahoan mashed potatoes plus bacon pieces. I also rehydrated and resupplied on water. During lunch, EB told me he didn't think he could make it to our planned stopping point. We had just over 9 miles to hike left to reach Brown Fork Gap Shelter and the "dreaded" Jabob's ladder which everyone says is soo difficult. EB also planned to shelter camp and didn't have a tent. It was a popular hiking weekend and there was a risk that the shelter could be full since it was a smaller shelter. EB decided to call it a day there and hike back to his car. This actually worked out well because I had left my car at Fontana, and we could each hike back to our own car. I left Sassafras Gap Shelter around 2:15 pm. I had a little less 5 hours of daylight left and 9.1 miles to go. I thought I could probably do it in 4 hours giving me time to set up camp. Either way, it was a very manageable, even with the "difficult" Jacob's Ladder. So I decided to push on.
I left Sassafras Gap Shelter and started up to Cheoah Bald (145.2 miles). It was only a 600 foot climb, but I have to admit my legs were a little tired when I got to the summit. I reached the summit around 2:40 pm. Cheoah Bald offers a great view. I took my time at the top, took pictures, and spent time just enjoying it.
Shortly after I got there, two hikers made up to the summit going SOBO. We talked for about 30 minutes about hiking. We talked about our desires to want to do a thru hike. I told her how I am jealous of anyone who can do a thru hike. She tried to convince me to go. She made persuasive arguments, but it is just against my nature to take that much time off just to do something I want. I grew up with parents who did nothing for themselves. Who lived their lives solely for the benefit of their children. As great as my desire is to thru hike (I dream about it often), my desire to honor my parents' sacrifice is much, much greater. I honestly like my life currently. It is simple. Every time I have a desire to thru hike, I tell myself often my new philosophy of life: that my life is no longer my own to live. I have to respect all the sacrifices my parents made for me and, more importantly, that I do the same (read more) for the next generation. Each generation in my family has the absolute duty to make life for the next better. On this matter at least, my dreams of a thru hike will stay there (well at least until I retire, then it's on AT!!! I am coming for you. . ., one day!). Of course, given that my job is so easy that I can do it until I die, will I ever retire? Well that is an issue for another day. After this great conversation with a semi-retired teacher and her daughter, I take my last glance of the view and put on my pack. Luckily, from here to Stecoah Gap, it is mostly down hill with only a few short climbs. I had time to make up for all the time well spent on the summit of Cheoah Bald.
Immediately after leaving the summit, I reached an intersection where the Bartram Trail intersects (145.5 miles) and follows the AT up to Cheoah Bald. The Bartram trail ends at Cheoah Bald, which means I will have an opportunity to see it again when I finish the Bartram Trail. From here there is a fairly steep 1,300 foot descent with several switchbacks until you reach Locust Cove Gap (147.6 miles), which has a possible campsite.
From here there was a short climb and then I continued to descend until Simp Gap (148.8 miles). There was a short 300 + foot climb out of Simp Gap and then it was all down hill until you reach Stechoah Gap (150.7 miles). I reached Stechoah Gap just after 5:15 pm. There is a fair sized parking lot at Stechoah Gap and an okay view from the parking lot. I talked to someone from Ohio here who's wife has hiked the AT. Like others, he warned me again about Jacob's Ladder being difficult. After spending 15 minutes talking about the AT and bluegrass (he was there for a bluegrass concert), I started to make my way up to my final destination, Brown Fork Gap Shelter.
After about 40 minutes of climbing, I take out my trail guide to see when Jacob's ladder starts. I found out I was already on it and likely more than 2/3 of the way up. I put my trail guide away and started climbing again. I made it to the top without great difficulty. I mean don't get me wrong. My heart rate was up. I was sweating. I was breathing hard. I was more than a little tired. My pace had slowed a little but, I had been expecting a real challenge given the stories I heard about Jacob's Ladder. It was a moderately difficult climb, but I had much worse and it was over as quickly as it began. I made it up in one go. I really wish people would stop telling me about "difficult" sections. I build them up so much in my head that when I get there I barely notice them.
From the top of Jacob's ladder, I had a short .8 mile hike to Brown Fork Gap Shelter. I arrived there around 6:15 pm. I did fairly well, even with all the breaks. I had a little over an hour of daylight left. I considered pushing on to Cable Gap Shelter about 6 miles north, but decided to cook a meal, rehydrate and set up camp before dark-- what a novel concept!
I decided tonight would be a shelter night. I didn't want to deal with my tent. This was the first time in a shelter alone. I hate to admit it, but even as a 29 year old man, it felt a little creepy spending the night alone in a shelter. There were no bear cables here, so I had to hang my pack just outside of the shelter, which felt a little like putting chum in shark infested waters!
As I tried to go to sleep, I constantly heard things until I finally I started getting tired enough to go to sleep. Luckily, I employed the time honored tradition that I perfected while still a young kid -- that nothing bad can happen to me while I am in my sleeping bag. :)
After a while you kind of get numb to the sounds and they stop to bothering you as you start to get sleepy. I was happy it was a fairly cold night, and I was able to go to sleep before 10 am for the first time ever on the trail.
I left work very excited. I couldn't wait to get to Fontana. I was rocking out to music and in a really good mood. After three hours of driving, I was in a more foul mood. It was a long drive; it felt like I would never make it. However, when I finally pulled into the parking lot, my mood instantly got better. I took my sleeping bag and pad out of my trunk and made my way down to the Fontana Hilton. It was by far the best shelter I had spent the night in. Although my general rule is to avoid sleeping in a shelter, this was an intentional except. The Fontana Hilton is famous on the AT. With hot showers and running plumbing, I can see why it is so acclaimed.
I met EB there. I didn't get there until about 8 pm. We talked about hiking for a while, law school, work, and life for a while and then we decided to turn in so we could get an early start in the morning.
I woke up Saturday after a decent night of sleep. It wasn't great as it was still a little warm, but it had cooled significantly from my previous hikes. I was able to go to sleep before 1 am. In the morning, we were the first to break camp: an event that rarely happens with me. The sun was just starting to rise over the lake. I convinced EB to have breakfast before we went and watch the sun rise over Fontana Lake. After breakfast, he drove us down to NOC. We parked the car, and we were off.
Anyone who has hiked this section of the AT knows whether you are going NOBO or SOBO, the climb out of NOC can be difficult. I have been doing a lot of hiking so I got used to it. I also started to note that while the climbs in NC that I have done so far are larger, they tend to be over a greater distance as well so as to not be as steep as some of the hikes in GA.
This hike serves as an example. There is a 3,600 + foot climb from NOC to Cheoah Bald, with 90% of the trail constantly climbing, but the climb is over about 8 miles. I think these types of climbs are easier then the 1,000+ feet of elevation gain in a mile or so. Of course, that is just my personal opinion.
We left NOC around 8:30 am. We reached Wright Gap (138.9 miles) at 9:15 am. Here the AT crosses a dirt road. I found a beer can on the trail which I picked up and packed out. We continued to climb. Four miles later we come across our first view: the Jump-up (141.9 miles), which has great views of the Nantahala Gorge. Up to this point, we have done nothing but climb 2,100 + feet of elevation over 6 miles. We take a 2-3 minute break, and at 11:30 am we continue to climb.
Next we reach Swim Bald (143.1 miles), which offers little to no view; however, after Swim Bald, we finally have a 300 foot descent, our first of the day. It felt great to not be climbing anymore, and this less than a mile break down to Sassafras Gap Shelter (144 miles) really recharged my batteries.
Here we decided to have lunch around 1 pm. I had what is now my usual lunch: idahoan mashed potatoes plus bacon pieces. I also rehydrated and resupplied on water. During lunch, EB told me he didn't think he could make it to our planned stopping point. We had just over 9 miles to hike left to reach Brown Fork Gap Shelter and the "dreaded" Jabob's ladder which everyone says is soo difficult. EB also planned to shelter camp and didn't have a tent. It was a popular hiking weekend and there was a risk that the shelter could be full since it was a smaller shelter. EB decided to call it a day there and hike back to his car. This actually worked out well because I had left my car at Fontana, and we could each hike back to our own car. I left Sassafras Gap Shelter around 2:15 pm. I had a little less 5 hours of daylight left and 9.1 miles to go. I thought I could probably do it in 4 hours giving me time to set up camp. Either way, it was a very manageable, even with the "difficult" Jacob's Ladder. So I decided to push on.
I left Sassafras Gap Shelter and started up to Cheoah Bald (145.2 miles). It was only a 600 foot climb, but I have to admit my legs were a little tired when I got to the summit. I reached the summit around 2:40 pm. Cheoah Bald offers a great view. I took my time at the top, took pictures, and spent time just enjoying it.
Shortly after I got there, two hikers made up to the summit going SOBO. We talked for about 30 minutes about hiking. We talked about our desires to want to do a thru hike. I told her how I am jealous of anyone who can do a thru hike. She tried to convince me to go. She made persuasive arguments, but it is just against my nature to take that much time off just to do something I want. I grew up with parents who did nothing for themselves. Who lived their lives solely for the benefit of their children. As great as my desire is to thru hike (I dream about it often), my desire to honor my parents' sacrifice is much, much greater. I honestly like my life currently. It is simple. Every time I have a desire to thru hike, I tell myself often my new philosophy of life: that my life is no longer my own to live. I have to respect all the sacrifices my parents made for me and, more importantly, that I do the same (read more) for the next generation. Each generation in my family has the absolute duty to make life for the next better. On this matter at least, my dreams of a thru hike will stay there (well at least until I retire, then it's on AT!!! I am coming for you. . ., one day!). Of course, given that my job is so easy that I can do it until I die, will I ever retire? Well that is an issue for another day. After this great conversation with a semi-retired teacher and her daughter, I take my last glance of the view and put on my pack. Luckily, from here to Stecoah Gap, it is mostly down hill with only a few short climbs. I had time to make up for all the time well spent on the summit of Cheoah Bald.
Immediately after leaving the summit, I reached an intersection where the Bartram Trail intersects (145.5 miles) and follows the AT up to Cheoah Bald. The Bartram trail ends at Cheoah Bald, which means I will have an opportunity to see it again when I finish the Bartram Trail. From here there is a fairly steep 1,300 foot descent with several switchbacks until you reach Locust Cove Gap (147.6 miles), which has a possible campsite.
From here there was a short climb and then I continued to descend until Simp Gap (148.8 miles). There was a short 300 + foot climb out of Simp Gap and then it was all down hill until you reach Stechoah Gap (150.7 miles). I reached Stechoah Gap just after 5:15 pm. There is a fair sized parking lot at Stechoah Gap and an okay view from the parking lot. I talked to someone from Ohio here who's wife has hiked the AT. Like others, he warned me again about Jacob's Ladder being difficult. After spending 15 minutes talking about the AT and bluegrass (he was there for a bluegrass concert), I started to make my way up to my final destination, Brown Fork Gap Shelter.
After about 40 minutes of climbing, I take out my trail guide to see when Jacob's ladder starts. I found out I was already on it and likely more than 2/3 of the way up. I put my trail guide away and started climbing again. I made it to the top without great difficulty. I mean don't get me wrong. My heart rate was up. I was sweating. I was breathing hard. I was more than a little tired. My pace had slowed a little but, I had been expecting a real challenge given the stories I heard about Jacob's Ladder. It was a moderately difficult climb, but I had much worse and it was over as quickly as it began. I made it up in one go. I really wish people would stop telling me about "difficult" sections. I build them up so much in my head that when I get there I barely notice them.
From the top of Jacob's ladder, I had a short .8 mile hike to Brown Fork Gap Shelter. I arrived there around 6:15 pm. I did fairly well, even with all the breaks. I had a little over an hour of daylight left. I considered pushing on to Cable Gap Shelter about 6 miles north, but decided to cook a meal, rehydrate and set up camp before dark-- what a novel concept!
I decided tonight would be a shelter night. I didn't want to deal with my tent. This was the first time in a shelter alone. I hate to admit it, but even as a 29 year old man, it felt a little creepy spending the night alone in a shelter. There were no bear cables here, so I had to hang my pack just outside of the shelter, which felt a little like putting chum in shark infested waters!
As I tried to go to sleep, I constantly heard things until I finally I started getting tired enough to go to sleep. Luckily, I employed the time honored tradition that I perfected while still a young kid -- that nothing bad can happen to me while I am in my sleeping bag. :)
After a while you kind of get numb to the sounds and they stop to bothering you as you start to get sleepy. I was happy it was a fairly cold night, and I was able to go to sleep before 10 am for the first time ever on the trail.
Day 2 - Sunday, October 19, 2014
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Start Location: Brown Fork Gap Shelter (153.1 miles)
End Location: Fontana Dam (166.4 miles). Parking Location: Yellow Creek Mountain Rd (158.4 miles); Fontana Dam Visitor Center (166.4 miles). Views: Brushnell Knob (154.1 miles); Fontana Lake (165.6 miles). Water Sources: Brown Fork Gap Shelter (153.8 miles); Cable Gap Shelter (159.2 miles); and Fontana Hilton (165.8 miles). Campsites: Brown Fork Gap Shelter (153.8 miles); Code Gap Campsite (156 miles); Cable Gap Shelter (159.2 miles); and Fontana Hilton (165.8 miles). Brown Fork Gap Shelter (153.8 miles); Cable Gap Shelter (159.2 miles); and Fontana Hilton (165.8 miles).Siler Bald (114.4 miles)AT Distance: 13.3 miles Hiking Distance: 13.3 miles |
I woke up fairly early in the night with pain in my hips. I guess my simple ridgerest was no longer cutting it. I adjusted and went back to sleep. If I had waken up early enough, I could have tried the 12 miles by 12 pm; unfortunately, sleeping in was more important. I woke up at roughly 7:30 am, made breakfast and packed up. I was off on the trail by 8:45 am. I had a short day today. I had about a 13 mile hike until Fontana Dam. I decided my goal was to finish around 2-3 pm as I had an almost 4-hour drive back home. I packed enough water to get me all the way to Fontana as I didn't want to have to stop for water. I drank a liter with breakfast, and carried another three with me. I figured that would do it.
The AT leaving Brown Fork Gap Shelter until Cable Gap Shelter was mostly downhill, but has several series of climbs and descents, all of which were very short. As I was hiking this stretch, I thought maybe I should have pushed to Cable Gap Shelter last night. Luckily, I didn't because I would have likely missed the only real view of the day at or around Brushnell Knob (154.1 miles). This portion of the trail is pretty easy and unremarkable and before I know it I am at Cable Gap Shelter (159.2) around 11:15 am. I sit in the shelter and have a snack and drink some water. After a short 5 minute break, I start a 600+ foot climb and then a 150 foot descent to Black Gum Gap (160.6 miles). From here the trail levels off for about a mile before you start the constant descent to Fontana Dam. This portion of the trail loses about 2,000 feet of elevation in about 4 miles.
Unfortunately, there was nothing really noteworthy about this hike. It turned out to be just a "get miles in" kind of day. The only other aspect of the trail that was remotely noteworthy is that shortly before the AT crosses NC 28 near the Fontana Marina, the AT intersects the Benton MacKaye Trail.
Otherwise, I really have nothing else to say about this hike except for the next time I go to Fontana Dam, I will finally be starting THE SMOKIES!!!!!!
The AT leaving Brown Fork Gap Shelter until Cable Gap Shelter was mostly downhill, but has several series of climbs and descents, all of which were very short. As I was hiking this stretch, I thought maybe I should have pushed to Cable Gap Shelter last night. Luckily, I didn't because I would have likely missed the only real view of the day at or around Brushnell Knob (154.1 miles). This portion of the trail is pretty easy and unremarkable and before I know it I am at Cable Gap Shelter (159.2) around 11:15 am. I sit in the shelter and have a snack and drink some water. After a short 5 minute break, I start a 600+ foot climb and then a 150 foot descent to Black Gum Gap (160.6 miles). From here the trail levels off for about a mile before you start the constant descent to Fontana Dam. This portion of the trail loses about 2,000 feet of elevation in about 4 miles.
Unfortunately, there was nothing really noteworthy about this hike. It turned out to be just a "get miles in" kind of day. The only other aspect of the trail that was remotely noteworthy is that shortly before the AT crosses NC 28 near the Fontana Marina, the AT intersects the Benton MacKaye Trail.
Otherwise, I really have nothing else to say about this hike except for the next time I go to Fontana Dam, I will finally be starting THE SMOKIES!!!!!!