Springer Mountain to Wilscot Gap
This was my first backpacking trip of 2015. I was going to hike this section with RR, who I met on Appalachian Sections Hikers group on Facebook. We planned to meet at Wilscot Gap and leave a car there and drive down to Springer Mountain Parking lot.
Another friend who I had hiked sections of the AT with, SB, was also going to start a section on the AT at Springer. I picked her up at Unicoi where she left her car, I drove us down to Wilscot Gap, where we meet RR. We left my car there and all three of us drove down to Springer Mountain.
Technically speaking, Springer is not on the BMT, but given its proximity, I absolutely refuse to not call Springer the beginning of the BMT.
Another note, I did this hike nearly 3 months ago from the date I am writing this. My memory of this hike, I am sure, has taken a hit. I remember certain events, but can't exactly remember where they happened. Hopefully between the pictures and the video, I will remember most of the big things.
NOTE: I STRONGLY recommend anyone considering hiking the BMT to buy SGT Rock's Benton MacKaye Trail Thru-hikers' Guide. I have used it for every hike. At least for the GA portions of the BMT, I have used only SGT Rock's Guide. You can order it here. Go get it!
Next Section: Wilscot Gap To Appalachian Hwy US 76.
Another friend who I had hiked sections of the AT with, SB, was also going to start a section on the AT at Springer. I picked her up at Unicoi where she left her car, I drove us down to Wilscot Gap, where we meet RR. We left my car there and all three of us drove down to Springer Mountain.
Technically speaking, Springer is not on the BMT, but given its proximity, I absolutely refuse to not call Springer the beginning of the BMT.
Another note, I did this hike nearly 3 months ago from the date I am writing this. My memory of this hike, I am sure, has taken a hit. I remember certain events, but can't exactly remember where they happened. Hopefully between the pictures and the video, I will remember most of the big things.
NOTE: I STRONGLY recommend anyone considering hiking the BMT to buy SGT Rock's Benton MacKaye Trail Thru-hikers' Guide. I have used it for every hike. At least for the GA portions of the BMT, I have used only SGT Rock's Guide. You can order it here. Go get it!
Next Section: Wilscot Gap To Appalachian Hwy US 76.
Day 1 | Saturday, March 28, 2015
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Start Location: Springer Mountain Parking Lot (0 miles)
End Location: Toccoa River Campsite (14.7 miles). Parking Location: Big Stamp Gap (1 mile N on AT); Three Forks Parking Lot (6 miles); Toccoa River (14.7 miles). Views: Springer Mountain (0 miles); Owens Overlook (1.3 miles); Long Creek Falls (6.9 miles); The Bald (8.1 miles); Toccoa River Bridge (14.7 miles). Water Sources: Springer Mountain Shelter (0 miles); Creek (2.2 miles & 2.7 miles & 5.9 miles & 6.0 miles); Long Creek Falls (6.9 miles); Long Creek (7.1 miles); No-Name Gap (8.6 miles); Bryson Gap (11.9 miles); Spring immediately before Toccoa River Bridge (14.7 miles). Campsites: Springer Mountain Shelter (0 miles); Owens Overlook (1.3 miles); Creek Crossing (2.2 miles); Three Forks (6.0 miles); Long Creek Falls (6.9 miles); The Bald (8.1 miles); No-Name Gap (8.6 miles); Bryson Gap (11.9 miles); Toccoa River Campsite (14.7 miles). BMT Distance: 14.7 miles Hiking Distance: 16 miles |
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The BMT officially starts 0.2 miles north of Springer Mountain summit. However, RR and I decided to go to the summit. It was a cold day. It had just snowed and there was still light snow on the ground in certain locations. The summit was also packed with thru hikers starting their journey. We took the obligatory pictures and we hiked north on the AT to the southern terminus of the BMT. I had hiked the first 5 miles of the BMT as part of a Springer Mountain to Long Creek Falls loop long ago so I knew the area fairly well.
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At about 10:20 AM we were off. The trail leaving Springer Mountain is largely downhill with a very short little climb here and there. The weather this morning was cold, but it was a beautiful sunny day. I was excited to finally start the BMT. Very shortly after leaving Springer, we came to a plaque commemorating Benton MacKaye. At 10:50 am, we came to the side trail at Owens Overlook (1.3 miles). You will see a double blaze on a tree on your left and sign saying "view". Here you will go a very short distance to a great overlook facing south I believe. During the winter, this Overlook offers amazing views.
Leaving Owens Overlook, the trail continues to descend and eventually crosses FS 42 at 1.7 miles. The trail then continues to descend until you come to the first of 2 or 3 creek crossings (2.2 miles). At 11:24 am, we arrived at the first creek crossing where there is a very nice campsite.
From here, the trail begins a series of short ups and downs while gaining elevation. The trail crosses another creek at 2.7 miles and intersects with the AT for the first time at 3.2 miles. We arrived at this intersection at 11:35 am. RR and I had a bet by this time. I bet that we would not see three backapackers like us on the first 31 miles of the BMT, except for AT crossings, where the AT and BMT join, and Toccoa River. Although there appears to be some advocating using the BMT as an alternative to the AT, I won this bet.
The trial from this intersection continues to climb up Rich Mountain where the trail crosses the AT for a second time (3.9 miles). From here, the trail begins a nearly constant, 800 + foot descent to Long Creek Falls (6.9 miles). However, the BMT joins the AT and they share a trail at Three Forks (5.9 miles). The AT and BMT share the same trail for about 1 mile until Long Creek Falls (6.9 miles). We arrived at Long Creek Falls at around 1:00 PM. Here we had a long lunch break with several other hikers and we meet SB again. We also resupplied on water and just enjoyed the falls. I love waterfalls. Something about the sounds made my waterfalls soothes my soul. I can't explain.
After a long lunch break, we were off at 1:40 pm. I hadn't taken a step north of this point on the BMT. Last time I was here I was doing a Springer to Unicoi Gap section on the AT. RR, who had done the GA Loop (one of the hardest hikes in GA), took the lead from here. From Long Creek Falls, the BMT gains approximately 500 feet of elevation until it reaches the top of "The Bald" (8.1 miles). The Bald is a really cool open,grassy field/pasture at the top a mountain. The military uses this location for helicopter landings. There is a dry campsite immediately after crossing over the Bald. From here on out, we found a lot of evidence of military training, including a long clip of live rounds!!!
From the Bald, the trail descends steeply over 400 feet in a half a mile to No-name Gap (8.6 miles). This is last water source for next 3.3 miles. We had a short break here and by 2:20 pm, we were off. From No-Name Gap, the trail begins a series of climbs and descents, the first climb being the most difficult. At around 3:20 pm, we arrive at Bryson Gap (11.9 miles), which had water and a nice campsite. Again, there is no water for the next 2.8 miles until immediately before Toccoa River Bridge.
After another short break, we began hiking to Toccoa River Campsite (14.7 miles). The trail here begins a long descent and offers a few nice winter views while hiking on the trail. Man, you got to love winter hiking in nice weather! At about 4:45 pm, we arrived at the Toccoa River Bridge. I would not drink water from the river. Facing the bridge going northbound, look to your right. There is a nice water source coming straight from the mountain above into the river. Get your water here.
Somewhere along this stretch someone must have done nothing but eat gum. A lot of gum. We found damn near 40 gum wrappers and packages in about a 1 mile stretch of the trail. We picked up all those we could find.
We crosses the bridge and took some pictures and picked a camp spot for the night. The area wasn't packed, but it was pretty damn close. We set up camp quickly, ate, and had ample time to kill. RR made a fire and we talked for a bit until it started getting dark. Then off to sleep I tried to go.
Leaving Owens Overlook, the trail continues to descend and eventually crosses FS 42 at 1.7 miles. The trail then continues to descend until you come to the first of 2 or 3 creek crossings (2.2 miles). At 11:24 am, we arrived at the first creek crossing where there is a very nice campsite.
From here, the trail begins a series of short ups and downs while gaining elevation. The trail crosses another creek at 2.7 miles and intersects with the AT for the first time at 3.2 miles. We arrived at this intersection at 11:35 am. RR and I had a bet by this time. I bet that we would not see three backapackers like us on the first 31 miles of the BMT, except for AT crossings, where the AT and BMT join, and Toccoa River. Although there appears to be some advocating using the BMT as an alternative to the AT, I won this bet.
The trial from this intersection continues to climb up Rich Mountain where the trail crosses the AT for a second time (3.9 miles). From here, the trail begins a nearly constant, 800 + foot descent to Long Creek Falls (6.9 miles). However, the BMT joins the AT and they share a trail at Three Forks (5.9 miles). The AT and BMT share the same trail for about 1 mile until Long Creek Falls (6.9 miles). We arrived at Long Creek Falls at around 1:00 PM. Here we had a long lunch break with several other hikers and we meet SB again. We also resupplied on water and just enjoyed the falls. I love waterfalls. Something about the sounds made my waterfalls soothes my soul. I can't explain.
After a long lunch break, we were off at 1:40 pm. I hadn't taken a step north of this point on the BMT. Last time I was here I was doing a Springer to Unicoi Gap section on the AT. RR, who had done the GA Loop (one of the hardest hikes in GA), took the lead from here. From Long Creek Falls, the BMT gains approximately 500 feet of elevation until it reaches the top of "The Bald" (8.1 miles). The Bald is a really cool open,grassy field/pasture at the top a mountain. The military uses this location for helicopter landings. There is a dry campsite immediately after crossing over the Bald. From here on out, we found a lot of evidence of military training, including a long clip of live rounds!!!
From the Bald, the trail descends steeply over 400 feet in a half a mile to No-name Gap (8.6 miles). This is last water source for next 3.3 miles. We had a short break here and by 2:20 pm, we were off. From No-Name Gap, the trail begins a series of climbs and descents, the first climb being the most difficult. At around 3:20 pm, we arrive at Bryson Gap (11.9 miles), which had water and a nice campsite. Again, there is no water for the next 2.8 miles until immediately before Toccoa River Bridge.
After another short break, we began hiking to Toccoa River Campsite (14.7 miles). The trail here begins a long descent and offers a few nice winter views while hiking on the trail. Man, you got to love winter hiking in nice weather! At about 4:45 pm, we arrived at the Toccoa River Bridge. I would not drink water from the river. Facing the bridge going northbound, look to your right. There is a nice water source coming straight from the mountain above into the river. Get your water here.
Somewhere along this stretch someone must have done nothing but eat gum. A lot of gum. We found damn near 40 gum wrappers and packages in about a 1 mile stretch of the trail. We picked up all those we could find.
We crosses the bridge and took some pictures and picked a camp spot for the night. The area wasn't packed, but it was pretty damn close. We set up camp quickly, ate, and had ample time to kill. RR made a fire and we talked for a bit until it started getting dark. Then off to sleep I tried to go.
Day 2 | Sunday May 29, 2015
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Start Location: Toccoa River Campsite (14.7 miles).
End Location: Wilscot Gap (29.8 miles). Parking Location: Toccoa River (14.9 miles); GA 60 (18.2 miles); Skeenah Gap Road (24.5 miles); and Wilscot Gap (29.8 miles). Views: Toccoa River Bridge (14.7 miles); Wallalah Mt Overlook (19.8 miles); and Rhodes Mountain (23.1 miles). Water Sources: Spring immediately before Toccoa River Bridge (14.7 miles); Spring (22.4 miles); and Payne Gap (26.6 miles). Campsites: Toccoa River Campsite (14.7 miles); Wallalah Mountain (20.1 miles); Campsite (22.4 miles); and Payne Gap (26.6 miles). BMT Distance: 15.1 miles Hiking Distance: 15.3 miles |
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We slept it a little the next morning. I had a rough night of sleep. We had breakfast and packed up. As always in the morning, I was the last to pack up and RR was waiting on me. Eventually, we head out and shortly after leaving the campsite we find it. The hiker's version of the Iron Throne. The obligatory pictures were taken on the Throne.
Before leaving this section, hydrate very well. The water sources for the next 15 miles barely exist, unless you want to drink creek water coming from a chicken farm or hike 0.2 miles to a church. My advice would be hydrate well before leaving camp and bring the maximum amount of water you can. I wouldn't rely on the two water sources in this section described above. When we hiked it, the water wasn't the best and it was difficult to collect without a pump. |
This section of the trail was going to much more difficult than the day before. To give a brief overview of the hike, the BMT was going to gain 800 + feet, then descend 700 feet, to gain 1,100+ feet, to then lose 400 feet, to gain another 700 feet, to lose 300+ feet, level out briefly, then lose 900 feet, to gradually gain 500 feet, to gain another 500 feet and finally to lose 500 feet. I didn't even include and climbs or descents in his description under 300 feet. It has been the most difficult section of the trail so far in Georgia in terms of elevation gain and lost.
Leaving the Iron Throne, the trail continues to gain elevation for approximately 700 feet until it reaches Toonowee Mountain Summit (16.4 miles). From here, the trail descends 700 feet in 1.8 miles until it crosses the southern GA 60 crossing at 18.2 miles. From here, the BMT begins a relentless 1,100 to the summit of Wallalah Mountain (20.1 miles), but first it comes to a great overlook of the mountains and valley below at 19.8 miles.
We took a nice break on the overlook and then finally finished making the push up to Wallalah Mountain, which has a campsite. I had read that the climb up Wallalah Mountain has broken many a man trying to do the Duncan Ridge Trail. I remember it being very tough, but not the worst climb I had done. That being said, I still needed a few breaks to make it up. Here, I drank the last of my water. Unfortunately, I didn't follow my advice above and I drank more water than anticipated on the climb.
From Wallalah Mountain summit, the BMT descends 400 to a gap at 20.8 miles and then begins steep 700+ foot climb to Licklog Mountain (22.1 miles), which also offers a dry campsite. I was hurting for water at this point, but in 0.3 miles we came to a campsite (22.4 miles) which had a very small water source on a very steep 400 foot descent side trail. The water source was not the best, but it was something. It took forever to get significant water. I remember drinking about 2/3 of a liter and bringing another 3/4 of a liter with me. We were considering going to 0.2 miles west to the church for better water, but the hike was taking me longer than we would have liked.
Leaving this campsite, the trails descends briefly and then levels off for about a half a mile until you reach the base of Rhodes Mountain where the BMT and Duncan Ridge Trail diverge. We decided to climb the 0.1 mile, yet very steep trail up to Rhodes Mountain for a nice view. After leaving Rhodes Mountain, I only had a little water left. From here, the trail loses about 900 feet of elevation until it reaches Skeenah Gap Road, which was a very small parking area (24.5 miles). We decide to skip going the extra half a mile to the church. The trail here begins a series of short climbs and descents but overall gaining over 500 feet of elevation over the next 2 miles.
At 26.6 miles, we reached Payne Gap, We go look for the Spring and it again is a crappy water source for a non-pump water filter. However, we managed to get a little water. I drank 1/2 a liter on the spot and had my last snack. I carried another 2/3 of a liter with me. From here, the BMT begins its 1.5 mile climb up Deadennen Mountain (28.1 miles) where the trail gains over 700 feet of elevation. This climb hurt me. I was very tired and dehydrated. RR shared a snack with me during this climb and I downed the rest of my water in no time.
From here, the trail descends moderately until it reaches Lula Head Gap (29 miles). The BMT then begins a short climb up Wilscot Mountain (29.2 miles) and finally a 300 foot descent to Wilscot Gap. I hate to admit it, but I was relieved to see my car. With this, RR and I completed just over 10% of the BMT.
Next Section: Wilscot Gap To Appalachian Hwy US 76.
Leaving the Iron Throne, the trail continues to gain elevation for approximately 700 feet until it reaches Toonowee Mountain Summit (16.4 miles). From here, the trail descends 700 feet in 1.8 miles until it crosses the southern GA 60 crossing at 18.2 miles. From here, the BMT begins a relentless 1,100 to the summit of Wallalah Mountain (20.1 miles), but first it comes to a great overlook of the mountains and valley below at 19.8 miles.
We took a nice break on the overlook and then finally finished making the push up to Wallalah Mountain, which has a campsite. I had read that the climb up Wallalah Mountain has broken many a man trying to do the Duncan Ridge Trail. I remember it being very tough, but not the worst climb I had done. That being said, I still needed a few breaks to make it up. Here, I drank the last of my water. Unfortunately, I didn't follow my advice above and I drank more water than anticipated on the climb.
From Wallalah Mountain summit, the BMT descends 400 to a gap at 20.8 miles and then begins steep 700+ foot climb to Licklog Mountain (22.1 miles), which also offers a dry campsite. I was hurting for water at this point, but in 0.3 miles we came to a campsite (22.4 miles) which had a very small water source on a very steep 400 foot descent side trail. The water source was not the best, but it was something. It took forever to get significant water. I remember drinking about 2/3 of a liter and bringing another 3/4 of a liter with me. We were considering going to 0.2 miles west to the church for better water, but the hike was taking me longer than we would have liked.
Leaving this campsite, the trails descends briefly and then levels off for about a half a mile until you reach the base of Rhodes Mountain where the BMT and Duncan Ridge Trail diverge. We decided to climb the 0.1 mile, yet very steep trail up to Rhodes Mountain for a nice view. After leaving Rhodes Mountain, I only had a little water left. From here, the trail loses about 900 feet of elevation until it reaches Skeenah Gap Road, which was a very small parking area (24.5 miles). We decide to skip going the extra half a mile to the church. The trail here begins a series of short climbs and descents but overall gaining over 500 feet of elevation over the next 2 miles.
At 26.6 miles, we reached Payne Gap, We go look for the Spring and it again is a crappy water source for a non-pump water filter. However, we managed to get a little water. I drank 1/2 a liter on the spot and had my last snack. I carried another 2/3 of a liter with me. From here, the BMT begins its 1.5 mile climb up Deadennen Mountain (28.1 miles) where the trail gains over 700 feet of elevation. This climb hurt me. I was very tired and dehydrated. RR shared a snack with me during this climb and I downed the rest of my water in no time.
From here, the trail descends moderately until it reaches Lula Head Gap (29 miles). The BMT then begins a short climb up Wilscot Mountain (29.2 miles) and finally a 300 foot descent to Wilscot Gap. I hate to admit it, but I was relieved to see my car. With this, RR and I completed just over 10% of the BMT.
Next Section: Wilscot Gap To Appalachian Hwy US 76.